The car took us from Madrid to Toledo early in the morning, and the city unfolded before us from a distance, resembling a jewel nestled in the mountains. Toledo appeared to us as if it were a giant artistic masterpiece carved into the mountain’s embrace.
We arrived at the outskirts of the city, located 75 kilometers away from Madrid. We walked through its beautiful neighborhoods, streets, castles, mosques, churches, markets, and scattered cafes, each corner and alley holding its own charm.
To enter Toledo, one must pass through its ancient Arab gate called “Bab Al-Sahel,” known today as “Puerta de Bisagra.” This grand gate serves as the main entrance to Toledo and is considered a major intersection of roads leading to the city. It is also one of the ancient Andalusian gates. In 1550, it underwent significant facade work by the architect Covarrubias in honor of King Carlos I. The gate was later expanded during the reign of King Philip II, and two towers were added. A double-headed eagle emblem was erected on its facade. Not far from the Puerta de Bisagra, towards the east, another gate stands called Puerta del Sol.
A visitor to Toledo must pass through the ancient Arab gate, which today is named “Puerta de Bisagra,” and which is considered the main grand gate of the city. It serves as the meeting point of the roads leading to Toledo and is one of the ancient Andalusian gates. It was constructed in the time of Al-Mamun, the ruler of Toledo, in the early 10th century. In 1550, it received a significant facade makeover by the architect Covarrubias, as a tribute to King Carlos I. The gate was later expanded during the reign of King Philip II, and two towers were added, along with the installation of a double-headed eagle emblem.
We spent a long time near the Cathedral of Toledo, built between 1226-1493, resembling the Burgos Cathedral. The Toledo Cathedral library houses millions of manuscripts and documents from the eighth to the eleventh centuries.
Toledo is renowned for having one of the world’s largest markets that showcases treasures and gifts with an Andalusian touch. It is also known for its carpet factories, swords, excavations, and various skilled handicraft industries.
We also visited the house of the renowned artist El Greco (1540 AD), which serves as a museum crowded with visitors, especially foreigners. El Greco painted hundreds of artistic works in an expressive style, sometimes using impressionistic colors, with the majority of his subjects being religious.
Toledo was the capital and the base of the Banu Gout ruling family, and its kingdom. The city’s exact origin and settlers have been debated by historians. Toledo is said to mean “the joy of its inhabitants,” and it gained its greatness and distinctive location due to its perch atop a mountain, surrounded on three sides by the deep Tagus River, except on the north side.
Tariq ibn Ziyad, in 92 AH (711 CE), opened Toledo. It was assigned to the Yemeni tribes among the distribution of Arab tribes in Spanish cities. Toledo was a central and crucial frontier during that time. In the early days of Muslim rule, it served as the administrative and governing center and was declared a military base by Al-Hakam, the ruler of Al-Andalus, in 797 CE. The palace is located at the highest point in the city’s eastern section, and it was initially given a military nature and served as a headquarters for governance. It had a square or rectangular shape and was surrounded by square-shaped towers.
The Mosque of Bab Al-Mardum, or the Mosque of Nur al-Masih, is one of the oldest landmarks in Toledo, built in 390 AH (999 CE). After the city was occupied by the Spanish in 1085 CE, the mosque was converted into a church called “Nur al-Masih.”
The Church of San Román in Toledo was completely rebuilt in the thirteenth century, and the old minaret of the mosque was attached to it. This minaret is the same one from which, according to legend, Alfonso VIII announced himself as the king of Castile when he was just eleven years old.